We met a man named George of the Jungle. We met him at Rosie's Juice Bar in Puerto Morelos, Mexico. We followed him out into the jungle, away from the coast, away from civilization, out into the jungle. I would never have done such a thing in the US, but hey, this is Mexico.
We drove 20 minutes down a straight paved road and turned onto a narrow dirt one. Twenty minutes later we turned down a single lane jungle track. We drove over limestone rocks and giant potholes. We kept wondering how far out into the jungle we must go and what would happen if our can broke down. Finally we came to a ranch. White limestone littered the ground. I am jot sure what the animals ate, I could not see grass anywhere. Two young golden skinned men met us. We paid them $5 for each of us and they led us to a hole in the ground.
The Yucatan Peninsula is crisscrossed by underground rivers. It is the largest underground cave system in the world and most of it is still not mapped. Every once in a while, the earth gives way and exposes a bit of the watery system. These pools are called cenotes. They are considered sacred by the Mayan people as the water they offer is pure and clear as glass. We stood twenty feet above one of these pools. A ladder was secured to the opening by a bit of wire. It plunged down into a cavernous hole with water so clear you could easily see the bottom a hundred feet or more below the surface. This ladder was the way out. The way in was through another hole , this one with a spiral staircase carved into it. We could not see the water from above, but clambered down into the chamber. The rock hewn steps ended several feet above the water. Darryl donned his mask, fins and snorkel and jumped in. He swam, face first in the water for a minute or two and came up. "You're not gonna like this," he said.
Thirty feet or so underwater two black caverns led off in either direction. It was the river, stretching off into who knows where. This cenote was newly discovered by the outside would and had not been explored. No one knew where the underground tunnels led. Could I swallow my fear and jump in?
I put on my bright yellow fins, hung my mask and snorkel around my neck and sat there contemplating the stunning stalactites hanging from the roof of the cave. Small bats fluttered about and the rock beneath me was cool and moist. I though maybe if I just scooted down a little more I could get my feet in the clear water and then decide whether or not to brave jumping in. I was wrong. Scooting was not a good idea. I went past the point of no return, getting myself into a precarious position just a foot or so above the water. I am not sure I would have jumped in had I not been required to do so, but that being said, I did it. I pushed my mask onto my face, put my snorkel in my mouth and jumped.
The water was cool but not shocking. It was so fresh and clean and silky and clear and ominous. I did not look into the dark underground chambers, but headed straight to the wooden platform from which the ladder rose back to the surface. Darryl swam beside me and I focused my attention on another ladder leading out of the water and onto the platform. I reached it in just a minute or so. It wasn't far. I grabbed onto its algae covered rungs and turned to stand, still in the water but now with the security of something behind me. I dipped down into the water and looked into the abyss. The light faded and complete blackness engulfed the space.
Darryl swam the perimeter, wishing for his scuba gear. It got the better of him I think, he craving to know what was around the next bend. I am thankful he had no air tanks, no regulator with him. Some of these caves offer scuba tours with guides and lines and for experienced divers only. This one offered no such luxury, only a little dock and a two story ladder to climb your way out.
I am thankful I braved the cool water, I faced a fear that floated quickly up from my past and I conquered it. Then again, maybe it was a draw.
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